A Taste Of Italy…Cavolo Nero Con Fagioli E Patate

If you have ever dreamed of traveling to Italy, finding a small trattoria out in the countryside, and sampling some of the wonderful foods you have read about for years, then you are like me. I think we all hope that we can find that special little spot that the tourists haven’t discovered. We would all enjoy being served course after course of simply prepared foods cooked from recipes that have been passed down for several generations…we want to experience a true taste of Italy. One course we might be served is cavolo nero con fagioli e patate which is a peasant dish based on black Tuscan kale,  cannellini beans and potatoes.

An Italian Trattoria
An Italian Trattoria

This is a simple yet delicious soup or stew which is typical of the farming regions of Italy, but primarily found in Tuscany during the fall and winter.  Maybe you have seen this dish referred to as a zuppa, stufato, minestrone, minestra or a ribollitta. Whatever name you might know it by, two of the main ingredients are usually Tuscan kale (sometimes referred to as black cabbage) and cannellini  beans. Every family seems to have their own recipe for this simple, healthy and delicious dish and it can even vary during the seasons. It is usually served with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a little grated cheese.

A Tuscan Stew
A Tuscan Soup…Cavolo Nero Con Fagioli E Patate (Tuscan Kale With Beans And Potatoes)

If you have plans for cooking a pot of beans from scratch, save several cups for this delicious soup. It will be equally good if you use canned cannellini beans for a quick meal. This dish is reminiscent of what I have had while traveling in Italy. It can be prepared with the addition of other seasonal vegetables that are fresh in the market.

Cavolo Nero Con Fagioli E Patate

Tuscan Kale With Cannellini Beans And Potatoes

  • A large bunch of Tuscan kale, washed, stemmed and torn into bite size pieces
  • 3 Tbsp. olive oil, plus additional to drizzle
  • 2 pieces of pancetta or bacon, chopped (You can leave out for a vegetarian dish)
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 1 rib of celery, chopped
  • 3 or 4 cloves of fresh garlic, minced
  • 2 potatoes, peeled and cubed (I used Yukon Gold)
  • 1 bay leaf (remove before serving)
  • a sprig or two of fresh thyme (remove stems before serving)
  • 1 couple of sage leaves, chopped
  • 1/4 tsp. red pepper flakes (optional)
  • 4 c. of cooked cannellini beans or 2 cans (19 oz. each), rinsed and drained
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • 6 c. of water ( 2 c. of vegetable or chicken broth can be substituted for a portion of the water for added flavor)

Bring 6 cups of lightly salted water to a boil, add kale and cook for two or three minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon, retaining the cooking water in the pot. Add the potatoes and beans to the cooking water.

Heat 1 Tbsp. of oil in a sauté pan, add pancetta or bacon and cook until almost crisp. Add the onion and celery to the pan and cook until soft and translucent. Add the garlic, herbs and pepper and cook for one minute, then add to the cooking water. Let cook until the potatoes are tender and the beans are starting to break up a little. Mash some with the back of a spoon.

In the meantime, add the additional 2 Tbsp. of oil to the sauté pan and add the blanched kale, and cook until almost tender. Add to the pot of beans and potatoes. Taste for additional seasonings and let cook for an additional ten minutes before serving.

****

Many cooks place a toasted piece of bread in the bottom of each bowl and pour the soup over. I choose to serve bruschetta all’olio on the side of the plate. Toast or grill a piece of bread, rub it with a clove of garlic and drizzle it with olive oil. Whichever way you decide to serve this dish, pour a little extra virgin olive oil over it at the table along with a little bit of freshly grated pecorino romano or parmesan cheese.

Trattoria In The Italian Countryside
Trattoria In The Italian Countryside
Barrels Of Balsamic Vinegar
Barrels Of Balsamic Vinegar

I think you will enjoy this dish and feel like you have had a true taste of Italy.  Now you need to find that little trattoria out in the Italian countryside before the tourists do. Perhaps after your wonderful meal, the owner will take you into his barn and show you his treasured barrels of wine or balsamic vinegar that he is watching over so carefully.

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I travel the back roads of the world, sharing great food and interesting places and enjoyable pastimes.

165 thoughts on “A Taste Of Italy…Cavolo Nero Con Fagioli E Patate

    1. Hi Emil, I think we all love Tuscany and the food that comes from the region. I’m trying to eat extra healthy for a few weeks and Italian dishes like this soup fit the bill. Thank you for your comment.

    1. Hi Donna, I’m glad that I brought back memories of your trip to Italy. I know you are looking forward to returning. This is a very typical dish and I am glad you like the recipe…thank you.

    1. Hi Marina, I’m glad that you enjoyed the photos and soup. Kale and white beans definitely make a delicious meal. Thank you for your comment.

    1. Hi Betsy, I think you will enjoy this recipe. I had some for lunch the next day and it was even better. You are right…it is perfect for this time of the year, as kale is always better during the cold weather.

  1. You know I’m so dreaming of traveling to Italy one day and touring exactly as you did!! This bowl of soup instantly brought back memories from my father. He would make a very similar soup like this, and the toasted bread was at the bottom of the bowl!

    1. Yes Linda, I do know you dream of traveling to Italy. Just remember…dreams really do come true. I know that your dream will be a reality some day. I’m happy that I brought back memories of your father’s soup.

    1. Hi Rosemary, I think most Italian recipes are simple. Maybe that is why we love them so much…the flavors shine through. Thank you for your nice compliment.

  2. Karen, for the first time ever … your dish doesn’t talk to me loud … *smile – kale not my thing and those white big beans, but your photos does, big time. Those balsamic barrels … wonderful. And the photo of the dish … smells good.

      1. I understand my friend…at least we both like the potatoes. I am very fortunate that you enjoy most of my recipes. All friends can not agree on every thing. 🙂

  3. I love cavolo nero, and cook it regularly in Italy. Here in Australia it is considered a bit exotic and is expensive, but it seems to grow in every back yard in our village and I can pick it up for a few cents at the local market. I will be back in Italy in a couple of weeks, and will be looking out for cavolo nero.

    1. Hi Debra, I love the taste of cavolo nero as well. It has just recently been available in our markets and is more expensive than other greens. Thank you for your comment. I know you will enjoy getting out of the heat in Australia for awhile. Enjoy you time back in Italy.

  4. I loved going to Italy and France..I have a very fond memory of a meal in Perugia..the setting was gorgeous..the wine..the food..
    This looks good Karen.
    I used canned beans a lot..they are so handy.

    1. Hi Monique, Isn’t it lovely when we find a wonderful place where we loved the food and wine along with a location…all combined for a memory that we won’t forget. I’m glad that you enjoyed the recipe…my pantry is full of canned beans.

  5. Hi Karen, we are planning our first trip to Italy this year. I am taking advice (and possibly accommodation) from some of my Irish Italian friends. Wonderful people.
    Best,
    Conor

    1. Hi Conor, If you are planning a trip, I have a dear friend that lives in Tuscany. She has a travel business, is an oenologist, specializes in exclusive wine tours and foodie finds as she has friends in the wine, olive and food industry all over Italy. She is the most delightful person you could ever meet. Her name is Myriam Angulo and you can contact her at http://www.divinetours.com. Tell her you are a friend of Karen, from Coral Gables, Florida and she will certainly do everything to create at memorable trip for you. She can get you a rental or a hotel no matter where you want to be.

  6. What a lovely post, I love beans and the addition of the kales sounds like an amazing contrast in textures. I would leave out the potatoes to try to cut down the carbs, and I probably won’t miss them.
    Your photo of the balsamic barrels brought a lovely memory to mind, Karen. The first time I ever tried Balsamic Vinegar was in the country-side of Modena, Italy about 25 years ago. We had visited the family who was making some equipment for JT’s father’s soap factory and they took us out for an incredible lunch. After lunch the agent for the equipment manufacturer insisted we drive 45 minutes out of our way so he could buy us our first bottle of balsamic to bring home with it. I’m not kidding you, it cost in over $40 in 1987! I have seen that brand at Williams Sonoma and buy it from time to time as a memory. Thank you.

    1. Hi Eva, Thank you for your lovely compliment…I’m glad that you enjoyed the post and recipe. Of course you can eliminate the potatoes and the recipe will still be delicious. The balsamic vinegar that is made where we visited is not exported anymore…most is reserved for family and friends. I treasure each drop of my very thick vinegar that is like liquid gold. As you say…it is priceless.

    1. Hi Uru, So nice to hear from you…I hope you had a wonderful trip to visit your family. I’m glad that you enjoyed the post. Thank you for your nice comment.

    1. Hi Celia, I think that there are millions of recipes for similar dishes. I enjoy chorizo in a recipe that is similar to this recipe as well…caldo gallego that I used to eat when we lived in south Florida.

  7. I think I would like my bread on the side of the plate as well – I just don’t like soggy bread! What a beautiful, nutritious and warming soup and like you say, perfect for the cooler months xx

    1. Hi Charlie, Yes…I like my bread grilled crispy and drizzled with olive oil to munch with the soup. I like the crunchy against the soft textures of the soup. This is a dish you will enjoy once your extremely hot summer is over. I know the heat is terrible there right now.

    1. Hi Meg, My husband and I have been lucky to find some wonderful little restaurants during our travels along the back roads…the one in the photos was so special on our last trip in Italy. This year I had best and lightest spaetzle in a restaurant in Germany in a little town where all the customers were locals in their work clothes and not a person spoke English. Food overcomes language difficulties when the owners see your plates wiped clean.

  8. Sounds just the thing for a healthy & tasty supper. I’ll certainly try your Italian recipe. We eat something similar here in France. Just found your blog from Ronelle at myfrenchkitchen. Look forward to reading your posts .

    1. Hi Barbara, Thank you for stopping by for a visit and your nice compliment. I’m glad that you enjoyed the post. I’m looking forward to your return.

  9. We’ve got snow on the way on Friday. Since I won’t be hopping a plane for Italy, this looks like the perfect dish for the day.

    1. Hi Richard, I think the whole world loves Italian food. I do hope that you and Baby Lady get a chance to visit Italy. In the meantime, cook this soup on a day that it is cool in Texas. Knowing our love of spicy…you might want to add a little more red pepper. Thank you for your nice compliment…glad that you enjoyed the photos.

    1. I agree with you Larry, they have a lot of similarities. Our world is connected by food no matter where we live. I hope you enjoy the recipe if you try it. Thank you for your nice comment.

  10. You have to get well off the tourist track to find such restaurants in Italy but the best idea is to ask the locals where they eat. When we visit family in Italy, they will drive for miles to get to their favourite restaurants and think nothing of it.

    1. I agree with you Suzanne, about getting off the tourist track. That is what my blog is all about. Even though I do travel to famous cities, most of my adventures revolve around the back roads of the world. That is where you find little restaurants like the one you see in the photos. This is a simple recipe that you will find in such places. Thank you as always, for your comment.

  11. Without question, one of my favorite things in Italy is finding the fork/knife symbol on a sign out in the countryside. I can never resist stopping and have had delightful experiences and meals as a result. BTW, is Tuscan kale different from what is generally available in the grocery?

    1. Hi Lulu, Isn’t wonderful to find those memorable little restaurants out in the countryside…they are so special. Yes…Tuscan kale is different than the regular kale typically found in our markets. The shape of the cavolo or Tuscan kale leaves will remind you of romaine but bumpy and very dark green…almost black. I would think that you will be able to find it in Houston if I can now find it in rural New Hampshire.

  12. I make a zuppa that has kale in it which is the first time I’ve ever used kale – always wondered what to do with it. Mine has potatoes & sausage but the beans is a great idea. Perfect too for this time of year because a good zuppa hits the spot.
    Wonderful photos by the way – you really got the perfect “feel”.

    1. Thank you Diane, for your nice compliment. I’m glad that you enjoyed the photos and the recipe. I think you would enjoy this recipe as I would yours with the sausage. Kale is at its best during the cold weather so it is a perfect fall and winter recipes.

    1. Thank you Emmy, for your nice compliment. This was a delicious meal that I will be making often. When you can discover a treasure of a restaurant while traveling, it is so very special.

  13. Well, if one cannot make an immediate trip to Italy, in this instance it is so easy to bring Italy home. You have photographed one of my favourite dishes so beautifully! Whereas I do occasionally use tinned beans for some dishes when time is scarce, this one always gets made the ‘long way’: tastes more real somehow!!

    1. I always enjoy your comments, Eha…they are so lovely. Canned or as you say tinned beans are always in my pantry but when I have a specific recipe involving beans, those cooked in my kitchen always taste great and cost much less. I’m glad that you enjoyed the recipe and photos.

  14. Yes, please. I love this sort of soup. I make something similar, and rarely make it exactly the same way twice – it’s so easy to play with ingredients. Thyme is one of my favorite herbs and I love it in a soup like this, but if you have some fresh rosemary (I have some from my garden potted up and growing in the window over my sink), it also works quite well. For me the red pepper flakes are a must! Really nice, and great pictures – thanks so much.

    1. I would love to serve you a large bowl of this recipe, John. I agree with you about the herbs…as they say, parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme. I think they all go very well with beans…thyme and sage being typical to Italy in this dish. I always hate leaving my large rosemary bushes when we close down our garden in Maine…it is the only herb that can’t survive the winter. I cut and freeze large branches and they work well in recipes. Thank you for your compliment…I’m glad you enjoyed the recipe and photos.

  15. This sounds wonderful. I’ve heard of Tuscan kale or black cabbage as it’s referred to here. Yet, have never eaten it. Nor have I tried their acquacotta, something I’ve tried to replicate at home. Surprisingly, the results were fab!

    1. Hi Johnny, I’m glad you like the recipe. I like the black cabbage…both its texture in this soup and its flavor. I think the success in this dish is all in the seasonings. Onion, garlic, herbs and letting it cook until it becomes thick…finally dressing it with the best olive oil and a grating of good cheese. Thank you for your nice compliment.

    1. Hi Kat, I appreciate your comment. This is a prefect dish for this time of the year. Now if we could just get you whisked away to Italy.

    1. Hi Elizabeth, you Portuguese soup does remind me of this soup. There is also a Spanish soup called caldo gallego that is similar. Beans and kale seem to be popular soup ingredients in many countries.

      1. I started with Swiss chard a couple of years ago in a gratin and then tried kale as I still remember the Olive Garden’s Zuppa Toscana fondly. That was the first time I was ever exposed to kale but I never cooked with it myself until I made this soup with some spicy spanish chorizo sausages that I had on hand. It was a real winner and also had potatoes in it. I’m sure I’ll be making even more great kale dishes after seeing posts like this one. 🙂 Thank you.

    1. Hi Laura, Soup is always a comforting meal this time of the year and what better than an Italian one. Now if I was only in Italy enjoying it.

  16. Perfect Karen. Almost made a soup today but wasn’t moved. The neighbor still has loads of kale I have bacon in the freezer, and beans in the cupboard. I can do this. Thx cheers.. wendy

    1. Hi Wendy, It sounds like my timing was perfect. It is wonderful that your neighbor still has kale in the garden…the flavor is always better after it turns cold. Enjoy!

  17. Karen, this sounds absolutely wonderful and the perfect thing to eat on cold January evening. Any dish with Cannellini beans and Kale is going to be a hit with me. I love the earthiness of dishes like yours.

    1. Thank you Teresa, for your nice compliment. This is a good dish for this time of the year. I could eat a bean and greens dish once a week…lots of flavor and good for you.

  18. I do love this Tuscan soup! It wasn’t until recently that I found out that what we call dino kale here, is also called Tuscan kale. It’s my favorite and I love it in a similar soup that I make. You recipe looks delicious and I love the touch of bacon! Thanks for sharing all of the pictures.

    1. Hi MJ,Tuscan kale goes by so many different names…it is good, isn’t it. The little bit of bacon adds such a nice flavor to the dish. I’m glad you enjoyed the photos…thank you for your comment.

    1. Hi Raymund, Thank you for your compliment. Yes, this will be good later in the year for you as you are dealing with such hot weather now.

    1. Hi John, Thank you for your compliment. This is a comforting dish…perfect for this time of the year. Yes, your area is known for its blustery conditions but really no snow this year. We have a lot of snow on the ground but none in the near future.

  19. This. is a winter favourite of ours Karen, I skip the meat though. just love cavelo nero and it grows well here which is an absolute bonus. thanks for your recipe and reminding me we haven’t had it in a while!

  20. Simple food is always so much nicer – the Italians got this meal 100% right – delicious and I would also prefer to serve my toasted bread on the side as opposed to the bottom of the bowl – soggy bread doesn’t quite please my palette.
    Now, just to book my ticket to Italy to find a little trattoria out in the Italian countryside before the tourists do.
    Have a super day Karen.
    🙂 Mandy xo

    1. Hi Mandy, The Italians do have it right when it comes to food. I do have to agree with you about the bread. I prefer mine on the side butI do know that putting it in the soup was a good way to use up rock hard bread though. Italy is still a great place to find the little places that the tourist haven’t food. They tend to stay in the crowded cities eating at all the tourist traps…poor souls need to venture out into the countryside.

  21. We enjoyed this a few times while we were in Italy. You’re right – each family/chef makes it slightly different and the taste varies so much – largely due to the local ingredients used. Once I have gotten over my three week Italian food gorging I will make some of this and use the amazing olive oil we brought home. MMMM

    1. Hi Jerry, This is such a popular dish in Italy. You did eat some delicious food on your trip…now it is back to reality as I say. Welcome home.

    1. Hi Marie, I’m glad you enjoyed the photos. This is a great recipe to use your parmesan rind. I was surprised how many times this soup has potatoes in it. I think it is what people have this time of the year…cabbage, potatoes, etc. Come summer the soups will have tomatoes and zucchini from their gardens. Thank you for your nice comment.

  22. I am going to make this! The vegetarian version. I have a bunch of kale in my refrigerator and I have been looking through my cookbooks for a great recipe to use it in. You have come to the rescue–Again!! : )

    1. Hi Heather, I was thinking about you when I made this dish. Since you have changed to eating only vegetarian…I thought this would be just right for you. I hope you enjoy it.

      1. Awww!

        FYI, I did make it tonight…took pictures to prove it. It was wonderful. However, I did not have Tuscan Kale but I did have Texan so I thought, “What the kale!”. It turned out fabulous–very yummy. Thank you for the recipe.

      2. Love that you made the recipe and enjoyed it. I’m from Texas originally but I haven’t heard of Texan kale. You know how us Texans can be though…it’s probably better than Tuscan kale if we invented it. LOL. “What the kale” is right. 🙂

    2. I have never butted into a comment before on a blog, but there’s always a first. I cannot use chicken broth in any soups and have found an EXCELLENT vegetarian alternative. IT is called,”No Chicken Broth” by Imagine Foods and is organic. This seems to be a really nice and light tasting broth to add to things that normally require chicken broth. I also use vegetable broth, however sometimes I just don’t want the excess of flavors that a prepared vegetable broth often has.

  23. Thank you for this little trip to Italy, Karen! The rain is pouring here and reading your post was a nice escape. Lovely photos, too! I’ve been meaning to make a batch of white beans and this sounds like the perfect soup for them. Thanks for the inspiration!

    1. Hi Hannah, I’m happy that you enjoyed the little trip to Italy through my recipe and photos…thank you for your compliment. It is nice to know that I have inspired you.

    1. Hi Rachel, I have to agree with you that it must be white bean season and great minds. 🙂 No question you would enjoy this soup. I’m glad you liked the photos…thank you for your nice compliment.

    1. Thank you as always, Victoria for your nice compliment. It is nice to know that I inspire my readers. This is a simple but very flavor soup.

  24. Yes, I am like you, loved everything about Italy and its delicious traditions. 🙂 Your soup is right up my alley too — love a simple bean soup with flavors that remind me of quaint dining in Tuscany. Thanks for the trip today.

    1. Hi Judy, I’m glad you enjoyed the little trip to Italy through the photos and recipe. This simple peasant dish that is so flavorful. Thank you for your compliment.

    1. Hi Angie, I used a Rosemary Sourdough bread that I made the bruschette with. A homemade bread would be terrific. Thank you for your comment.

  25. A fantastic, hearty Winter dish which I adore and reallt should make more often…you know it´s on the list now as we adore these kind of meals. The temperaturas in England are due to drop to sub zero next week so I think I´ll be making it sooner rather than later!

    1. Hi Tanya, This is the perfect meal when the weather is frigid. I was thinking about you when I was making this dish as it reminds me of the Spanish soup caldo gallego that I used to eat at a wonderful Spanish restaurant in Miami.

  26. I love this hearty and comforting dish. So full of good-for-you ingredients and so full of flavor as well. Glad you enjoyed your trip so much Karen. May the New Year bring you much happiness and more travels! 🙂

  27. Wow, this sounds like perfection. I could totally go for a bowl of this. This is the type of thing we’d have for dinner or a regular occasion. Thanks for the great recipe.

    1. Hi France, Thank you for your lovely compliment. This simple peasant dish is so full of flavor…I love it. I’m glad you like the recipe.

    1. Hi Daisy, It is hard to me to get cavolo nero but it is so good that I have been searching it out. I can see why Italian peasants would have add potato to this dish at this time of the year. Not only does it have a long storage life but it helps make the soup a filling dish.

    1. Hi Siobhan, I think that this is a wonderful dish when the weather is cold but I have also been known to cook beans and greens in the summer, just using summer greens. Not only does the cavolo nero kale take cold weather…the flavor seems to get better, I think. I’m glad that you enjoyed the recipe and photos…thank you for your compliment.

  28. That soup sounds delicious and looks good too – that is one to try this winter. Thanks for coming to my blog and leaving a comment. I hope the coming year will find you with many great recipes and fun travels.

  29. Happy New Year to you, hope it is a healthy and prosperous 2013. Love the photos here and that dish sound delicious for a cold day. I have bookmarked it. Thanks. Diane

    1. Happy New Year to you as well, Diane. I’m glad you enjoyed the photos and the recipe. I hope you will enjoy the soup. I think it is perfect for this time of the year.

    1. Hi Pam, Thank you for stopping by for a visit and your nice comment. I’m glad you like the recipe…I think it is a nice way to use kale.

  30. Sadly I’ve never made the trip over the Alps from my beloved Bavaria down to Italy (something that Liz always gives me a bad time about). Though I look forward to sitting in the middle of nowhere eating and drinking to no end and enjoying a soup like this.

    Happy New Year Karen!

    1. Hi Jed, You will have to take your lovely Liz to Germany AND Italy in one trip. It is such an easy trip and I know you would both be happy. Happy New Year to you as well.

    1. Thank you Sandra, for your nice compliment. I’m glad that you enjoyed the photos and the soup recipe. Yes…balsamic vinegar is just like wine…both being aged in barrels. If you notice the different size barrels in my photo, balsamic vinegar is changed into smaller and smaller barrels as it ages and evaporates.

  31. Italian cuisine is so much more than pasta and pizza… I’m glad that you have posted this wonderful, regional recipe. It encourages me to look for more interesting Italian dishes. Thank you!

    1. Hi Sissi, I think the whole world loves Italy’s famous pasta and pizza dishes but as you say…the country has so many great dishes to experience.

  32. Karen, I dream of Italy! My mom’s side of the family is from Naples, Italy! Love the fagioli e patate recipe and I am going to place it on my list of must makes. I love the barrels of wine or balsamic vinegar!!

    1. Hi Judy, I hope that you get a chance to visit Italy someday. I’m glad you enjoyed the photos…the barrels were filled with balsamic vinegar that was aging. They keep transferring it to smaller and smaller barrels over the years. I certainly hope you enjoy this soup recipe.

    1. Hi Anne, Thank you for your lovely compliment…I’m glad you enjoyed the photos. I think crunchy bruschetta all’olio is much better on the side than having the bread under the soup getting soggy…I’m glad you agree with me.

  33. Karen, you really choose the most wonderful and satisfying meals that seem to be just perfect for this time of year. It is so cold and snowy here right now that I certainly would not mind a great big bowl of your delicious Cavolo Nero con Fagioli e Patate right now, with a side of the delicious Bruschetta. And the pictures of the Italian Trattoria make me long for a long overdue trip to one of my favorite countries…

    1. Hi Andrea, We had snow again the other day and nothing is going to be melting any time soon. Next week the high will be in the teens with more snow so a warm soup like this is perfect. Thank you for your lovely compliment…it is very much appreciated.

    1. Thank you Carol, for your nice compliment. I think this is a nice dish to have during the cool weather when Cavolo Nero is in the markets or growing in our gardens.

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